Cocker Questions

[Pompous Frog]

Okay, I'm gonna try to bring this thread back to life. I'll just post some what I think would be FAQs about cockers. I don't have a cocker but I do know the answers to most of these questions but wouldn't give as good answers as you cocker owners would.
Hopefuly it can be a refference to people who are thinking about getting a cocker.

1. I hear many things about cockers breaking down all the time? Is this true, an if so what parts are the problem areas and how can I go about fixing/bypassing these problems?

2. I also hear that cockers are one of the most accurate markers out there? Is this true and why?

3. What is the advantages of upgrading or buying an electric cocker?

4. I've got an old cocker. Is it worth me upgrading it to an electro-frame or should I just buy a new one?

Yep, it's too late for me to be posting this. Can't think of any more questions right now. But will. So, if any cocker owners could answer those clearly and detailed I think it might help some newer players...maybe.

[ben@pbhub.de]

Okay, I'm gonna try to bring this thread back to life. I'll just post some what I think would be FAQs about cockers. I don't have a cocker but I do know the answers to most of these questions but wouldn't give as good answers as you cocker owners would.
Hopefuly it can be a refference to people who are thinking about getting a cocker.

1. I hear many things about cockers breaking down all the time? Is this true, an if so what parts are the problem areas and how can I go about fixing/bypassing these problems?

2. I also hear that cockers are one of the most accurate markers out there? Is this true and why?

3. What is the advantages of upgrading or buying an electric cocker?

4. I've got an old cocker. Is it worth me upgrading it to an electro-frame or should I just buy a new one?

Yep, it's too late for me to be posting this. Can't think of any more questions right now. But will. So, if any cocker owners could answer those clearly and detailed I think it might help some newer players...maybe.


Ok let me tell you my thoughts, and thanks for getting this back on track.

1. The most important thing an Autococker needs besides proper timing is : oil. Every once in a while put a few drops of oil, non chemical and non-resinated (it will kill your O rings in your Ram, 5 way and valve), in your ASA. Flip your bolt around and shoot a couple of times, without the barrel. That way the oil is shot through the whole pneumatics. Also, put a drop of oil in your ram, to keep it smooth and running properly. A slow and dry ram makes your Cocker slow, you might need more LP. Besides that, there's nothing much to especially look for. Keep in mind to disassemble your regulators once in a while, clean and relube them. This will keep your regs running consistently.

2. Closed bolt *cough cough*. Usually, you can break this topic down to the fact, that everything that matters is paint to barrel match. There might be a marginal difference from open to closed bolt. Cockerplayers do notice it, so do Shocker players. Angelplayers can't see the difference ;)

3. The rate of fire. An E Grip will turn your Cocker into a beast, with all the positive aspects about an Autococker paired with the speed of an Angel eg. You can time you Cocker on your PC (Racegun) or through an LED display (Eblade). There are four grips to choose from, Centerflag, Racegun, EBlade and the Sandridge. With such things as eg the Halfblock Cocker, you have the next step of the 'evolution'. Less moving mass, less low pressure that has to be used, same efficiency, same operation, lighter and smaller setup. As I said before, all the good things of an Autococker paired with the speed of a highend electro marker.

4. You can upgrade every Cocker to an E Cocker. The only things you have to worry about are the general rules for every Autococker to E Cocker conversion :

Keep your moving mass as low as possible. Get a matching fulldelrin bolt, a good smooth ram like the Palmers Quickram and the Belsales Mag 44, attach Quick Exhaust Valves to them (cheapest and best upgrade) and get a nice and fast loader, like the Halo B. the faster you can feed it the faster it will shoot ;)




Any other questions ? New questions ? Questions about the answers ? Post straight away.

Ben

[Pyro]

Sorry Ben have to add the WorrBlade

[ben@pbhub.de]

EBlade and Worrblade are the same grip.
I didn't mention the ANS Racegun and the Freeflow 9v version of the Racegun, so it should be sweet shouldn't it ? :)

[minihux]

The Best thing you can do is go to forums. A good one is AIR powered a forum just for cockers. They give out lots of help.

The best marker IMO you can buy is a cocker, plenty of parts for them, easy to maintain if u look after it, and u can change / upgrade nearly every part on there with no drama's.

- peace /\/\ i n i h u x

[Pyro]

Worrblade just looks better :D And if you have a cocker don't worry about to much as they are a very good marker. yes they can sometimes be fiddly but when it is set up right don't touch it. as the old saying goes if it aint broken don't F$%^ with it.

[minihux]

KISS........Keep It Simple Stupid.

I really think the ANS E-Frame looks the nicest that why i got one and sold my original Race Frame........plus i get the ACE (double sensore eye) with it aswell.

- peace /\/\ i n i h u x

[Hideous]

Eye, vision, LED, whatever... do we really need to use BOTH sensors on the ANS ?

I like the shocker - its all hidden within the marker.
Mind you I didnt glue down the sensor... maybe I should ?

dab of silicon behind the sensor?

[Vladimir]

Eye, vision, LED, whatever... do we really need to use BOTH sensors on the ANS ?

I like the shocker - its all hidden within the marker.
Mind you I didnt glue down the sensor... maybe I should ?

dab of silicon behind the sensor?

The RACE eye is a break beam type, so yes you need both sides fitted.

[ben@pbhub.de]

Eye, vision, LED, whatever... do we really need to use BOTH sensors on the ANS ?

I like the shocker - its all hidden within the marker.
Mind you I didnt glue down the sensor... maybe I should ?

dab of silicon behind the sensor?


Yes you do, because one sided so called reflective Anti Chop Eye Systems like the Eblade's, Impy's Vision, Shocker Vision and whatdoIknow have some problems reading dark / blackshelled paint. The light that is sent from the sensor is not reflected by dark paint, but absorbed. This leads to malfunction.

A breakbeam ACE like it is used in the Raceguns, AKA Vikings and Excaliburs (as upgrade), Timmy, etc create a lightbeam between the two sensors. If this lightbeam is broken, you're allowed to fire. So no problems with darkshelled paint, which obviously makes it the better accessoire.

And guys, please stay on topic. Personal preferance about grips and hardware is one thing, bring on the facts. It's worth jack shyte if you just post that you like some hardware better than another without backing up your statement with facts.
Ben

[Pompous Frog]

Question Ben.

With Halfblocks, is any thing in the way of performance sacraficed? Are they still just as accurate? Because I'm thinking of getting one later next year after my next marker.

I personaly don't like the look of halfblocks too much, but the less pieces and reduced weight are a very good attraction, plus I'm sure you can get really good looking ones.

[ben@pbhub.de]

If you think that Cockers are more accurate due to closed bolt operation, no there is no difference in this point. They're like a cocker, just smaller and very fast.

Get one, you will be impressed.